Okay, so I've come to the conclusion that for the type of game I REALLY like (recently RPGish types like ME, ME2, FO3, FONV, Elder Scrolls) plus what I want to get back into (RTS/T and community CRPG like Neverwiner Nights 2) are better suited for playing on computers rather than my 360 for various reasons (modding, screen recording, RTS/Ts aren't even on consoles, etc.). The problem is I haven't had a good desktop in years (well probably never), plus I've never built a PC so I'm going to remedy both of those. Been thinking on this for a while and think I'm ready to pull the trigger this weekend on getting my orders in. So I read a lot up on this, and I seem to like the builds and advice at Hardware Revolution, so I'm planning on using this as a guide: http://www.hardware-revolution.com/mainstream-gaming-pc-august-2011/ I'm planning on getting Tier 3 Processor and GPU at the moment, but since I want to be open ended to upgrades in the future I'm leaning towards the Tier 6/7 motherboard, power supply and case (186 bucks more expensive than basic Tier 3 build based on his prices). My questions to the PC people on the board with build knowledge (thinking of Bacong, but there may be others): 1) Is my general plan a sound one? Is this guide complete shit or good/great or just meh? 2) Is the SSD for OS and choice programs REALLY necessary (i.e. save start up and loading program times by 75% or more, save wear and tear, heat, electricity bills, etc.)? And if it is should I pay an extra 25 bucks for the 90 gig model? 3) Is the tier 7 case worth 40 bucks over the tier 6 case? Is case easily upgradeable in the future? 4) Because I do not plan on pirating an OS and will be buying a copy of Windows 7, should I get the retail or OEM version? Does upgrading your processor render your OEM license null and void? Do not try to convince me to run Linux or something. 5) He seems to not put much stock in Sound Cards, but I would like to do a bit of recording but nothing serious, just for fun. Will the normal input handle that or should I get a card and if so recommendations? Would I be better off just getting one of those Line 6 contraptions that plugs in via USB instead (or would I need both)? Budget is 1000 bucks, but I think I also want new keyboard, mouse and webcam so 900 would be better. I woot'ed a 23 Inch 1080p LED monitor yesterday for 145 bucks after tax (Woot is based in Texas so couldn't dodge sales tax) and shipping.
1) seems good overall, i would recommend getting an i5 at the least (def not an i3) and do get the coolermaster212+ 2) SSD is nice, but not necessary. 3) i use the antec 300 myself, it's fine 4) i've never had a problem with OEM DRM or anything, and i'm running on an upgraded copy of 7 pro from xp pro, that was no hassle. 5) stock sound cards are perfectly fine for regular playback, if you want to do recording you'll want an external audio interface (ie m-box, firebox, sdifahosefibox), not a pci anything.
an i3 would honestly be fine if the clock speed was high enough (3ghz or more). most games don't actually require multithreading as much as they require raw clockspeed also if you plan on playing games with heavy keyboard involvement then do yourself a big favour and invest in a mechanical keyboard
The new i3-2100 is 3.1 gHz. It does have HT but guess that doesn't matter for games. After reading more about OEM I think I will just go ahead and spring for the retail version. I nearly forgot that I get a 20% reimbursement from my employer for a new computer purchase every 3 years anyways, so that will pay for the OS. Right now my basket is at 1200 bucks after adding the OS, a mouse and keyboard, speakers and webcam. My reimbursement covers up to 6 peripherals and 6 software packages. The only thing I can see them rejecting is the webcam (speakers are explicitly allowed) so I should get 240 back on this eventually. Thanks for the recording device update, Talon. I don't really need to do anything with that now and it's good that I'm getting the higher tier motherboard with fire wire (looked up the firebox and said it used that for output) in case I go for that in the future. So the cooler master is a fan that sits right on the CPU where as the case fans are just to circulate air into and out of the case, right? I think it only fits the i5 and i7 so I'll pass for now. I think I will go with the highest tier case. I want this box to be able to completely handle a new CPU/GPU in two or three years and we all know it's best to be forward thinking with computer tech. Anyone ever use the NewEgg financing? I am able to pay cash for this easily, but if the zero interest for 12 months is legit then I can easily pay 100 a month just as well.
the coolermaster 212+ is a heat sink, it specifically cools your cpu. it fits any current cpu socket size, it's quiet, it'll cool your cpu better than the stock heat sink that comes with cpus. i only use the 212+ and one case fan set to Low and it's the quietest/coolest my rig has ever been. your cpu isn't going to require a larger case, and unless you plan on buying enthusiast (the most expensive at any given time) GPUs you won't need a high-profile case.
Alright, sold on both the i5-2500 and the 212+ (but my Comp Eng friend finally weighed in as well and that pushed me over the edge). Gonna stick with the bigger case though (the tier 6 case), if only because I think the aesthetics are worth the 40 bucks.
It wasn't processing my order at 2 am last night...but it went through this morning (and was even a buck cheaper!). I will update with pictures of my first building experience when I get everything (should all be here by next weekend). In b4 people talk shit about the cheap mouse and keyboard I got. 1 x ($28.99) CPU COOLER CM| RR-B10-212P-G1 RT$28.991 x ($209.99) CPU INTEL|CORE I5 2500 3.3G 6M R$209.991 x ($99.99) CASE CM|RC-922M-KKN1-GP BK RT$99.991 x ($4.99) ACC HDD ROSEWILL| RX-C200P RT$4.991 x ($174.99) VGA SAPPHIRE|100314-3L HD6870 1G R$174.991 x ($159.99) MB ASROCK P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 R$159.991 x ($94.99) PSU ANTEC| 750W HCG-750 RTL$94.991 x ($49.99) MEM 4Gx2|KST KVR1333D3N9K2/8G R$49.991 x ($114.99) SSD 64G|CRUCIAL CT064M4SSD2 R$114.991 x ($59.99) HD 1T|SAMSUNG HD103SJ 32M 7K % - OEM$59.991 x ($37.99) WEBCAM LOGITECH | 960-000585 R$37.991 x ($20.99) DVD BRN ASUS | DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS% - OEM$20.991 x ($189.99) MS WIN 7 HOME PREMIUM FULL$189.991 x ($49.99) TREND MICRO TITANIUM IS 1 USER OEM - OEM$01 x ($39.99) SPEAKER LOGITECH | Z313 RT$39.991 x ($18.99) KEYBOARD GIGABYTE | GK-K6800 R$18.991 x ($19.99) MOUSE GIGABYTE | GM-M6880 RT$19.99 I think there's a few mail in rebates in there too.
What's the advantage of a mechanical keyboard over a normal one. I didn't realise there were different types.
this thread explains it better than i can: http://www.overclock.net/keyboards/491752-mechanical-keyboard-guide.html
Alright, that all makes sense on why it's better, but I still have to just file that along with artofshaving.com razors and BMW 5 Series as stuff that I know is really awesome but just isn't at the right marginal utility per dollar for me.
mechanical keyboards are pretty cool and probably worth it if you have the cash the mouse you ordered is similar to my one and it is incredible value for money. super comfortable, good dpi.
1000 will get you a fucking nice PC. 1) Sure. Tom's hardware FTW. Of course, I'll always say that Intel isn't necessary and AMD works great, but Intel IS better and if you want it, more power to you. 2) No, it's not necessary whatsoever. 3) I don't know. The general rule is to get a case with a lot of fans and one that's big enough inside, and preferably with tool less assembly and drive mounts. I'm sure that'll be great. 4) Retail is generally better, but I don't think you'd have any problems with OEM. 5) On board would handle recording, but even a standard sound card will be better, Good luck and have fun. My PC is already outdated as fuck
Well, NewEgg gave me two shipping numbers today, one for the case and one for everything else. Should be putting this together around Thursday.
it's not NewEgg faggot it's just newegg also I got my components on a friday and had to wait until monday to get the case
It can be neWeGg if I want it to be, berk. Haha, that would suck. At least if you get case + partial components you can do SOMETHING. At least I didn't order during a GPU shortage.
When I ordered my last PC the case came broken three times. Had the other parts sitting in my house for over a month before I could build it.
Fuck. That must have sucked. After once I'd probably be like, fuck it and go to Frys or something and pick one up.
Because I shouldn't trust Verizon Fios? Or do you mean IPS monitor? That's a luxury along with mechanical keyboards that doesn't maximize my utility per dollar.
Oops, yah, an IPS monitor. Some things are really worth the money, and it's one of them. Dell UltraSharp 23" monitors come down to as low as $200 during various sales. The extra $55 for a much better monitor, something that you'll be looking at every time you use for computer, for years, is worth it in my book. But we all have our priorities I guess. Which monitor did you end up getting anyway?
Waiting on a friend (that may be doing the same thing himself soon, and therefore wants to see what is up) to come over before I start assembling.
I also decided to go ahead and get the second 6870 for Crossfire after reading a lot of reviews...also Newegg is including a coupon for a free Deus Ex sequel, so that didn't hurt! Order just put in.
It actually supports three card Crossfire, but that's bordering on ridiculous as well as bordering on being too much for the 750W PSU to handle.
Dude, the link is right up there. ^^^ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157265 And yes.
Alright, a couple of hiccups after I finally got the damn thing together. First, I had not connected the 8 pin power to mother board...stupid. Second, the monitor was still not coming on...I use a checklist I found on Tom's Hardware and like number 23 was reset CMOS. I'm like, what the fuck is CMOS? But I look on the back of my computer and integrated on this board is a 'Reset CMOS' button. Ok...so I press it and everything comes on. I'm still wondering WTF is CMOS? Anyways, Windows 7 is installing.
After a few restarts while the mobo driver disc worked its magic I can say that I am VERY happy with the solid state drive. Restarts took 15-20 seconds.
Just registered as TaoDeKlem. Downloading TF2 now since it's free, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to have it download to the HDD rather than SSD. I'm sure I'll be given the choice when it starts installing, but I can't have everything downloading there or else it will get full way too fast, plus I hear you want to leave around 20% of an SSD free.